Contents and Chapter Excerpts

Rocks, Roots and Rattlesnakes

A Geologist’s Journal: 150 Days of Discovery on the Appalachian Trail

Craig A. Eckert, “Old Oriskany”

Contents

Foreword

Acknowledgements

Introduction: A Brief Geological History of the Appalachian Trail

Part One: Its Only Three States

Chapter One —— Georgia’s Endless Mountain Wilderness

Chapter Two —— Climbing Higher in North Carolina

Chapter Three —— The Great Smoky Mountains

Chapter Four —— The Balds

Chapter Five —— Tennessee and the Road to Damascus

Part Two: Endless Blue Ridge Summer

Chapter Six - Return to the Trail

Chapter Seven - Mt. Rodgers, Grayson Highlands and Exploding Fish Oil

Chapter Eight - Virginia’s Valleys and Ridgelines

Chapter Nine - Virginia’s Triple Crown

Chapter Ten —— Breaking New Records

Chapter Eleven —— Raining Raccoons and Washed Out on the Priest

Chapter Twelve —— The Shenandoahs

Chapter Thirteen —— Roller Coasters, Sandy Beaches and Hang-Gliders

Chapter Fourteen —— North of Mason-Dixon

Chapter Fifteen —— Pennsylvania’s Valley and Ridgeline Trails

Part III: The Long, Cold Hike Home

Chapter Sixteen —— Flip-Flop to Maine and the 100-Mile Wilderness

Chapter Seventeen —— River Crossings, Bigelows and Saddlebacks

Chapter Eighteen —— Navigating the Notches and the Mahoosucs

Chapter Nineteen —— The Whites

Chapter Twenty —— Leaving New Hampshire

Chapter Twenty-One —— The Green Mountains and the Long Trail

Chapter Twenty-Two —— The Berkshires

Chapter Twenty-Three —— Winter Arrives in Connecticut

Chapter Twenty-Four —— New York Highlands and Crossing the Hudson

Chapter Twenty-Five —— Boardwalks, Stairways to Heaven and Water Gaps

Chapter Twenty-Six —— Sun Up to Sun Down thru the Keystone State

Epilogue

Appendix

Selected References

Foreword

  • This book is the story about my 5-month journey hiking the Appalachian Trail (Figure 1). It is written as a series of daily logs, originally transcribed from my daily journals, and then embellished with additional details, resulting from further recollection and research. All of the stories are true, and many contain elements of human interest relating to…

  • Elevation profile of the Appalachian Trail showing each night’s stay: tent, shelter or hostel/motel. It is said that a thru hike on the Appalachian Trail is the equivalent of 16 or more ascents from sea level to the top of Mt. Everest. That’s about one ascent and descent cycle about every 9-10 days.

Part One: It’s Only Three States

Excerpts from sample chapters…

  • Chapter One: Georgia’s Endless Mountain Wilderness

    Day 0 June 5, 2020 Friday

    Pittsburgh, PA to Len Foote Hike Inn, GA

    Today was the perfect day to start my hike. Here in the lush green hills of northern Georgia, it was clear and sunny, with temps in the low 80s. Already late afternoon, the time was about 5 PM as I stood for a photograph under the stone arch, just behind the Amicalola Falls welcome center. This iconic arch marks the beginning of…

  • Chapter Three: The Great Smoky Mountains

    Day 15 June 20, 2020 Saturday (GSMNP Day One)

    Fontana Dam Shelter, NC to Russell Field Shelter, NC

    I awoke to nice weather, with yesterday’s storms finally passed. Outside I could hear the sound of birds chirping at first light, about 5:45 AM. There were low clouds over the lake, partly covering some of the mountain peaks in the Smokies. Today was going to be the day. The geology of the Smokies is extremely complex both from the standpoint of how the rocks…

  • Chapter Four: The Balds

    Day 21 June 26, 2020 Friday

    Standing Bear Hostel on Green Corner Road, NC to Max Patch Mt., NC

    I awoke at 5:30 AM, re-bandaged my toes, broke camp, had breakfast and was on trail by 7 AM. This morning was a very long ascent up Snowbird Mountain, beginning at 1800 feet and gaining over 2450 feet in elevation to the summit, at 4263 feet. There were several nice campgrounds that I passed along the way, which caused me to think…

Part Two: Endless Blue Ridge Summer

Excerpts from sample chapters…

  • Chapter Seven: Mt. Rodgers, Grayson Highlands and Exploding Fish Oil

    Day 45 July 29, 2020 Wednesday

    Chatfield Shelter, VA to VA 42 (Bear Garden Hostel), VA

    My alarm went off at 5:45, but I kept hitting the snooze until about 6 AM. I began my morning ritual of packing up and organizing everything inside of my tent. When it was time to take my morning vitamins and fish oil capsule I noticed that there was no more water left in my water bottle. Rather than choking down the dry pills…

  • Chapter Nine: Virginia’s Triple Crown

    Day 55 August 8, 2020 Saturday

    Lost Spectacles Gap, VA to Tinker Cliffs, VA

    I woke up at 5:30 AM to the calls of a couple of bobwhites. I made cold coffee and ate a Clif bar and was on trail by 6:50 AM. I had terrific views from the many overlooks all the way down to the creek. The morning was foggy and cool, but I could see out over the clouds, which were blanketing the valleys. Although very rocky and difficult to navigate in places, the trails were mostly …

  • Chapter Thirteen: Roller Coasters, Sandy Beaches and Hang-Gliders

    Day 73 August 26, 2020 Wednesday

    Snickers Gap, VA 7/679 to C&O Canal Towpath West Jct., MD

    I woke up at 6 AM, hastily organized my gear, and came out to the kitchen where I found Scott enthusiastically preparing coffee, eggs, bacon and English muffins for my breakfast. What a treat! I poured a cup of coffee and quickly devoured my delicious breakfast sandwich. We talked a bit more about he and his son’s possible thru-hike next year, and I signed his guest log…

Part Three: The Long, Cold Hike Home

Excerpts from sample chapters…

  • Chapter Sixteen: Flip-Flop to Maine and the 100-Mile Wilderness

    Day 87 September 15, 2020 Tuesday

    East Branch Lean-to, ME to W. Branch Pleasant River (ford), ME

    Awoke at 4:30 AM, after breakfast I broke camp in dark with headlamp, and was on the trail by 6 AM. It was very cold this morning, low 40’s and windy but with early sun peaking through the trees. After I was on the trail for several minutes, Crazy Quilt came up from behind to say good morning. She kept pace with me as we…

  • Chapter Nineteen: The Whites

    Day 110 October 8, 2020 Thursday

    Garfield Ridge Shelter, NH to Franconia Notch, NH

    I got up at 5:30 in Garfield shelter. It was a very cold night, with heavy rain and high winds all night and into the morning. I made a hot breakfast under cover with my other comrades and was on trail with Fenway by 7:30 am. Strong winds accompanied by a persistent cold rain followed us all morning on our way up to Mt. Lafayette. Despite the bitter morning cold, I was working up a sweat climbing…

  • Chapter Twenty-Six: Sun Up to Sun Down thru the Keystone State

    Day 147 November 14, 2020 Saturday

    Stealth campsite (near Lehigh Furnace Gap), PA to stealth campsite (near Dan’s Pulpit), PA

    Once more my 3:30 AM constellation alarm cried out, waking me up for yet another day of fun and adventure. I made my standard breakfast, packed up and was soon on trail by 5 AM. The morning was cool and clear as I started out in the dark…